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Reading About Caerhun Fort and Other Roman Sites in Wales - Visit A Museum |
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Books about archaeology have always been difficult for the layman to access, many are rare and certainly old, sometimes the books themselves become ‘collectables’ sold on their age and rarity
value. The book above is the classic study of the Kanovium Roman fort, published in 1938, and was the culmination of four summers of excavation at Caerhun by P.K. Baillie Reynolds of Aberystwyth
University. Owning my own copy was certainly a milestone in my early interest in Roman Wales, though now I feel the book’s opinions is are very dated, a great deal of new military information has been discovered since
1938, views have changed, and new theories develop, in particular some of the fort ground plans seem a little bit simplistic in comparison to examples done in the 1990’s. |
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Excavations on the
site of the Roman Fort of Kanovium, at Caerhun, Caenarfonshire Kanovium Excavation Committee and P.K. Baillie Reynolds, Cardiff 1938 |
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Museums Displaying Material From Caerhun and Other Local Romano-British Settlements |
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British Museum Russell Square, Bloomsbury, London W1
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Image the property and copyright of Llandudno Museum. |
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Kanovium Project Book Review The River Conway, Wilson Mac-Arthur, Cassell, 1952. |
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© Kanovium Project |
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Kanovium and the Conwy Valley are intrinsicaly linked, and I feel it desirable to feature other elements of the area, which may or may not have Roman links, for instance the river crossing at Tal-y-Cafn, which is coming soon, or more closer to home, St Mary’s Church which actually sits within the Roman fort, so it was with interest that I was able to review the above book. It touches on many Roman influences within the Conwy Valley, and indeed Llandudno and the Great Orme, all of which certainly were a factor in the fairly lengthy (if not high capacity) time Kanovium auxiliary fort was occupied. However it must be stressed at this point that, though the author is certainly enthusiastic about our historical heritage, and occasionaly correct, he is also prone to flights of romantic fantasy, and I have picked out many errors regarding the Roman influence in the Conwy Valley, so it is with caution that I digested his descriptions of later historical events, as my knowledge/interest, at least to a technical level, does not extend into the Medieval period. It was suggested by a contributor to this website that due to the many inaccuracies (many of which are still perpetuated in print by modern authors) that the book was not really suitable for inclusion in a website that has gained a reputation for both honesty and accuracy ; I disagree, the book is a charming study of North Wales during 1952, though it becomes glaring obvious that a writer should steer well clear of topics beyond their knowledge. Full of references to Roman bridges, wells, mines, healing spas, battle sites, and personalities, it is in variance to our approach, in that its sites and locations are only definitely ‘Roman’ if scientifically excavated, and that this is indicated so in published form. P.K. Baillie Reynolds 1938 Kanovium Excavation Report, and Nash Williams’ 1952 Roman Frontier in Wales are glowing examples of sticking to the known facts, while the above book is in quite the opposite direction. All this aside the book is worthy of mention as not only does it describe a Conwy Valley largely unchanged from Victorian times, it also features several pages describing the fort at Caerhun, and also wider Roman activities in the Conwy area Wilson Mac-Arthur and his rather attractive wife, Joan, visit the Conwy Valley during 1952, with the intent of doing a grand tour of the river from its source at Llyn Conwy, north of Penmachno, to the estuary at Conwy a distance of thirty miles. The book appears part of a series featuring other British rivers, the Hampshire Avon, the Fowey, and the Windrush, though the author(s) are not specified. The writing style is at once grandious, though eloquent, it attempts to convey some marvellous romantic achievement that it would be to undertake this tour. Something like reaching the source of the Nile, it is conveyed that they will be meeting the natives of the Valley (though they express dislike of the already present English immigrants from Manchester and Liverpool who are developing old houses into holiday cottages) and that these people will be both quaint and friendly. Indeed the opening chapter describing their approach to the Conwy’s headwaters by bus openly declares that most of the locals on the bus are not only aware of their proposed grand tour of the River Conwy, that they are even impressed! The book is illustrated with black and white high quality images, most featuring the afore mentioned attractive Joan, who is seen doing all manner of ‘proper’ 1950’s domestic chores along side their tent. Wilson Mac-Arthur is always unseen, neither do we know their home location, presumably using a camera was mans work in those days, though he hilarious describes how vehicles being few in those days lifts were hard to come by, though Joan did rather better when on her own! I digress..what did he have to say about Kanovium? Having reached Caerhun several weeks later after being shouted at by gamekeepers, kept awake by fledgling bikers on Triumphs and B.S.As at Betws-y-Coed and had his wife flirted with by car owners (some ancient in vintage cars) after visiting Maenan Abbey they shortly arrive as if by magic at the gates to Caerhun Hall, and I quote. |
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'We stopped, one afternoon, at the gates of Caerhun Hall.
Here, we had been told, were relics of Roman Britain that we should not miss. Without the faintest inkling of the delight in store for us we opened the gates and went in. There was no one about at the lodge and I
walked boldly up the drive, admiring already the beautifully laid-out grounds, the handsome trees and exotic plants and flowering shrubs, and then the Hall itself, a long graceful structure with tall gables and great handsome
windows shining in the sun. |
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While it is certainly flowerly romantic, we must remember it is the mid 20th century, the British people in those times, be they working class or middle class, as Mac-Arthur and his wife obviously are, were very old fashioned, many British customs being survivals from Victorian or even a much older time, so we must forgive them for the writing style. Readers of Enid Blytons’ Famous Five series will be familiar with the tone, we can almost imagine Mac-Arthur asking for Ginger Beer and Scones. He then goes into some detail on the then owner of the Hall, which is certainly interesting reading, as the Hall and St Mary’s Church are considered within the subjects dealt with in this website. The owner Dr. G.H.B Kenrick K.C LID had retired to Caerhun Hall after retiring from a fairly distinguished career in India, were he had seen seven years service on the Viceroy’s Legislative Council, while also being a lawyer, he was also something of an amateur archaeologist. Mac-Arthur describing him as from an ‘ancient Welsh family’ lists his earlier activities as follows, I quote. |
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He had been responsible for much exploration and excavation of Roman remains in the area, and as well as other and later archaeological work, and when he had nearly exhausted the possibilities of Maenan and had acquired the mansion of Caerhun he sold Maenan for a song and moved across the river to devote himself to the Roman period. |
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He eventually gets to the Roman fort, but before he goes into more detail about the Hall and its former owners of definite interest here is the Gough family mention though P.K. Baillie Reynolds indicates he was not a general, but a captain, either way this was the family the allowed the Roman fort to be excavated from 1926-9 - |
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In 1723 the last member of the ancient Welsh family which owned Caerhun died and was buried in the church-yard ; there is a memorial to him in the church The Hall was rebuilt in 1895 by General Gough, a cousin of General Sir Hubert Gough...... |
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Finally we get some information regarding the fort. |
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Conovium stood where now is the little church, just outside the grounds of Caerhun Hall, and two square-walled sepulchers containing human bones have been dug up there, as well as an urn with the calcinated bones of a female. |
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He seems to have not read the 1938 Excavation Report, or indeed the paper by the excavator of the ‘sepulchres’ Samuel Lyson, or he would have known that he was referring to the twin guard towers of north gate of the Roman fort, I have no knowledge or information regarding the urn containing a burial, though he was correct about the sundry bones. |
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The Tenth Legion under Ostorius had its headquarters here and several bricks have been
discovered with the inscription, Leg. X. In 1801 the foundations of a Roman villa were unearthed, with five rooms in front, and a cake of copper from Snowdon ore yielded further information. |
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Here Mac-Arthur is losing track, how he came to these conclusions amazes me, though they are still perpetuated today and are all a fantasy. It would certainly be very nice if Kanovium had been the base for Ostorius Scapula, the A.D. 75-8 timber fort of Kanovium may have had very slight traces beneath it which may represent an earlier short occupation, Baillie-Reynolds believed this to represent occupation only while building the timber fort. But we have absolutely no proof that Kanovium was a fort during A.D 48 (A.D 50 is also wrong) when Scapula attacked Flintshire and Denbighshire as we have no information that he crossed the Conwy, as Tacitus informs us ‘Scapula caused mass destruction of the De cangi tribe and took much booty, he had reached the sea facing Ireland when forced to withdraw following a revolt of the Brigantes’ a powerful and warlike confederation of Britons from Yorkshire. So it seems likely he had reached Rhyl or Colwyn Bay, and not advanced as far as the Conwy Valley when forced to retreat north. There is also another story that Kanovium was established by Suetonius Paullinus on route to smashing the Druids in A.D.61, again, nice, but no facts to back it up. He is wrong in attributing the bricks to a Tenth Legion, no tenth legion are known to have served in Britain at this time, as what he actually viewed was broken tiles which only had partial stamps remaining, what he should have read is LEGIO XX VV. The stamp translates to the Twentieth Legion Valiant and Victorious, for most of Kanovium’s active life it was managed by the local legion, the 20th at Deva, Chester, 45 miles east. Baillie-Reynolds also located these tiles and are correctly described in the Excavation Report. He describes the bath-house wrongly as a villa, though he is correct in his description of the copper cake being found, though wrongly calls it ‘Snowdon ore’ are is is now known it came from the Great Orme Copper Mines, and is similar to ones found at Colwyn Bay, Anglesey and on Halkyn Mountain, Flintshire. Today it is in Llandudno Museum. To say Kanovium has links with Septimius Severus is absurd, it is purely on the strength of the milestone found near Llanfairfechan which bears Severus’ name, I have heard such preposterous claims being made regarding the Hadrianic milestone found close by too, how could anyone possibly imagine the Emperors had time (or inclination) to go round all the milestones in the Empire, cutting a ribbon once a milestone had been erected. His description of the pilae and flue tiles from the baths are obviously correct, though he is dreaming again when he describes them as local clay. They likely came from the legionary tile works at Holt-on-Dee near Chester. We have no evidence for ceramic manufacture at Caerhun, though it has been noted near the fort of Tomen-y-Mur, near Pen-yr-Stryt, the street being the Roman road of Sarn Helen. Mac-Arthur correctly notes that the name Conovium originates from the River name Con-wy - the ‘head waters’ but wrongly calls the place a Roman City as Caer Hen translates to ‘old town’ the Welsh translation reflecting the extent of possible Roman settlement visible around the fort. Finally Mac-Arthur loses interest in the Roman remains and quite literally claims, I quote - |
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But it was not the antiquities of Caerhun that fascinated us ; and however dutifully the four of us would try to keep the conversation upon matters that concerned the River Conway it would dart away ; for there were many talks. |
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So Caerhun is left behind, whence they turn their attentions to the Medieval town of Conwy, suprisingly he correctly attributes dark age occupation to the hillfort on Conwy Mountain, Caer Lleon, and also to the similar age site over the river at Deganwy, though regarding Deganwy Castle he goes widely astray once more and says thus - |
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Opposite Conway Marsh lies Deganwy.... here was the winter quarters of Caradoc and the
Ordovices and Tacitus calls it Cangorum Civitas, the city of the Cangi....Brass battle-axe heads have been found here, and Roman coins that show here the Tenth Legion, the Antoniana under Ostorius, fought against the
Ordovices and Silures. |
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There is no evidence Caradog was ever at Deganwy, in his flight from the newly arrived Roman army in Southern England during the A.D 50s he may possibly have got as far as Abertanat near Oswestry, but Deganwy? He also has his Welsh area tribes hopelessly mixed up, the Silures could not be at Deganwy as they occupied South Wales, while the De cangi occupied the area overlooking the River Dee, east, the River Conwy possibly being the western border with the territory of the Ordovices. Roman coins do not indicate a battle, or the again much vaunted ‘Ostorius and hiis Tenth Legion’ Antoniana? well he can only be refering to a title given to British legions in the early third century ‘antoniniana’ as it is correctly spelt was a distinction naming Emperor Caracalla, whose correct name was Antoninus. The ‘brass battle axe-heads’ had obviously been Bronze Age axeheads, a common North Wales find and often named Roman in ignorance. Though finally, he was correct about 6th century use of Deganwy Castle. Much of Mac-Arthurs historical facts are indeed correct, it was a shame he couldn’t have researched the information for the Roman activity in the Conwy Valley as the enjoyment of reading a book about North Wales 50 years ago is spoilt by these mistakes. If a person knew nothing about the Romans then the myths would be further perpetuated, as indeed they have. The book is likely a collectors item now, but is no doubt available from specialist dealers It is worth reading as it describes a North Wales now much spoilt. The book features several images of Caerhun Hall, and a rather interesting image of St Mary’s Church, which I am obviously not at liberty to print. |
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